We've had people use it for this exact situation. It works, but there are a few things to be mindful about.
Temperature Increase
The hottest increase the incoming water is by 30-35C (86-95F) above the incoming water. This is on the highest gas / lowest water flow setting.
Say the water coming in is 10C (50F) from the tap - the HOTTAP will get it to 40-45C (104-113F), but the water will be set to the lowest setting (i.e approx 4LPM (1GPM)). So it might take a while before the bath is fully filled up
Recirculating the Water
Another idea is to circulate the water, but using a pump. Start by filling your bath up with water, then use a pump to recirculate water inside the bath (simply put the suction hose into the bath) and whatever is coming out the Hottap goes back into the bath.
You might find it's quicker to fill up the bath from the tap, then just recirculate water, and over time it'll heat up nicely. Using this method, the longer you keep recirculating water you can heat it up quite hot - as the water inside the bath will slowly get warmer over time.
However using the pump, we only recommend a max cycle time of 20min at a time. We've seen our pumps working for more than 20min at a time without trouble but again something to keep an eye on so the pump doesn't overheat.
Protecting from Wind
Assuming the Hottap will be running for a while, and if it's in an area where it's prone to winds, there is a chance that the flame could blow out. If the flame goes out the Hottap won't automatically shut the water flow, so you'll have to keep an eye on it to make sure you're actually getting warm water coming out.
All gas appliances are adjusted for a gas + oxygen mixture as 'sea' level. As you go up in altitude, there is less air and the combustion is less efficient.
At around 1500m (5000ft) we estimate that the HOTTAP will be around 10% less efficient. The higher up you go, HOTTAP will work but it'll just take longer for your water to heat up, or it won't get as hot. You can mitigate this by just recirculating water in a tub if you need to get it to reach a higher temperature.
Sizing Charts






Tub Storage Capacity: ~50 Litres / 14 Gallons


Specifications Table:
HOTTAP Unit & Accessories |
Dimensions: |
450H x 290W x 170D mm |
Weight: |
4.3kg |
Approval number: |
GMK10121 |
Run Time with 9kg Bottle: |
~15hrs |
Battery: |
2 x D-cell (for ignition only) |
Flow rate: |
2.5L - 6L per minute |
Max. temp: |
50°C |
Min. water Pressure: |
70kPa |
Max. water Pressure: |
900kPa |
Gas hose length: |
1.2m |
Shower hose length: |
5m |
Nominal gas consumption: |
28MJ/h |
Pumping & 12V Power
|
Self-priming height: |
1.8m |
Open flow: |
6 LPM |
Volts: |
12V DC |
Max pressure: |
60 PSI |
Duty cycle: |
Intermittent |
Max amps: |
5.8A |
Of Course! We comply with all compulsory regional standards.
In Australia AS 2658 is the gas standard for portable LP Gas appliances. It's actually illegal to sell portable gas appliances without this approval - and we would never risk that! Just FYI, our approval number is GMK10121.
Joolca is an Australian company. All of our product design & development, as well as the majority of our operations, is based out of our Headquarters right here in Melbourne.
Our products are currently made in Bangladesh (our Tent range) and China for everything else. All of the manufacturing partners we deal with have been hand-selected based on their professionalism and the quality of work they produce. In many cases, we've been working together for over 7 years now and have forged a very close relationship where they produce Joolca products according to our strict guidelines and specifications.
We know that China sometimes gets a bad rap for cheap products at low prices. That is undoubtedly true in some cases, but it's not the rule. Just like anywhere else, you can make products to various price points. Take our main manufacturing partner as an example; they are a company with over a billion US dollars in revenue per year, which comes with massive financial and compliance overheads of their own. They aren't cheap. The benefit that we get from a supplier like this is an incredibly broad in-house production capability (for us this means tighter control over more of our components) as well as access to a supply chain where, within a 50km radius, nearly every sub-component required for the HOTTAP can be found or made.
The reality is that unfortunately, the combination of these benefits would probably be impossible to find in any other country. Having said that, our door is open and we're always looking for awesome manufacturing partners. So if you know of any, please feel free to make an introduction!
The HOTTAP is designed with freshwater use in mind, using saltwater or brackish water can affect the internals and leave them susceptible to rust and corrosion.
It won't cause total damage immediately but saltwater, for example, will certainly reduce the lifetime of the unit. If you need to use salt water we'd recommend rinsing HOTTAP with clean water after use to minimise the risk of long term damage to the internals.
Protecting from the rain:
Your HOTTAP unit has been designed to be used outdoors however to ensure the unit remains in pristine working condition we strongly urge you to make all possible attempts to shield the unit from the elements. The unit is splash-proof however prolonged exposure to rain may result in the degradation of the internal components. The easiest way to protect your unit is to pack it away after use or keep it undercover to shield it from the weather.
Protecting from freezing temperatures and frost:
One last note regarding very cold temperatures - if you are in an area at a time when the temperatures approach or drop below zero you must drain the unit of water to prevent the water from freezing inside the unit and causing damage. Simply detach both water quick fittings and let the water drain from the unit. This will ensure that even if the temperature drops below zero your unit will remain safe and ready for next use.
In general, the answer is No! The HOTTAP must be used outdoors and in a well-ventilated area.
This applies to houses, sheds, shacks, camper trailers, caravans, houseboats, bus and van conversions, etc. You might want to check on the specific compliance requirements of your vehicle but we always recommend to use the HOTTAP outside.
If you need to get hot water inside, to an existing sink or something like that, this is still perfectly possible (and quick common amongst our customers) by setting up the HOTTAP outside the vehicle and quick connecting the hoses to your internal water lines.
The HOTTAP must be vertical when in use. This is because the flame (from the burners) heats the heat exchanger at its best possible efficiency when the unit is directly upright. The more the unit is tilted, the less efficient the heat exchange is – causing reduced water heating capabilities.
For peace of mind, the HOTTAP has a tilt sensor which will automatically cut gas to the unit if the HOTTAP gets tipped over.